Indian Waters RV Resort, Indio CA
On the night of our departure from Twentynine Palms, there was a massive windstorm. The winds were sustained at 25 mph with gusts at over 50 mph, which I had not experienced before in our camper. In the morning, the truck, the steps, and everything outside were covered by a layer of dust, and though the wind was still present, it was manageable. We were able to hitch up and get on our way.
The route passes through Morongo Canyon and drops you into Coachella Valley. San Gorgonio Pass, which runs west to east, creates a wind tunnel effect and is the site of a large wind farm. It is the windiest place in Southern California.
We stayed at Indian Waters RV Resort in Indio, the eastmost town in the valley. The site is large, with plenty of space between us and our neighbors, and we settled in quickly.
San Andreas Fault line runs through Coachella Valley to the Salton Sea. You can walk along the fault line in Thousand Palms Oasis Preserve . There are hiking trails through the oasis and along the hills. I was intrigued by the name, but we did not have time to count the palms; Tom was sure it was only 812. These palms are California Fan Palms; they live up to 90 years and grow over 60 feet high. They have a "petticoat" of older leaves, creating a habitat for birds, reptiles, and other critters.
We hiked around the preserve and got terrific views of the valley from a nearby hill. The "Palm House," a visitor center, has a lot of information about the fault line and earthquake activity over the years. It was a very enjoyable stop.
After a quick lunch, we visited another site, Shields Date Garden. The date ice cream was very sweet and tasty. But the garden was underwhelming. There were some date palms and other fruit trees. I did not realize it had a biblical theme; that's not my jam, so we left quickly.
Palm Springs has been a mecca for artists and architects for years and has many examples of mid-century modern homes. Today, we just strolled downtown Palm Springs, enjoying the sites, shopping, and people-watching. The Palm Springs Museum of Art is another excellent example of mid-century modern architecture. The exhibits were terrific, with different exhibits that included native and modern art.
Did you know the mountains west of Palm Springs are part of Mount San Jacinto State Park? Palm Springs Aerial Tramway has gondola rides to the top of the ridge in Mt. San Jacinto State Park. It's a 10-minute, 2 1/2-mile ride up the Chino Canyon. The Mountain House has two restaurants, gift shops, and an observation deck overlooking the Coachella Valley. And did I mention that the tram car rotates?
The scenery on top was amazing. The area was still covered in snow, making it scenic but slippery. We saw people with disks sliding down the snowy slopes. You could hear the kids yelling and having fun. There are lots of hiking trails available. For longer trails, you need to register with the Rangers.
We tried the short hike, but going without a traction device was tough—our spikes are at home! With two bum legs between us, we could only go so far.
We sat on a picnic table, enjoying the scenery and the scent of pines. The seats were at ground level, as more than one foot of snow was still on the ground. It was a nice change from the heat in the valley.
Staying at this RV resort was interesting. It's tucked into a neighborhood with houses just behind our camper. As we had our coffee every morning, the pups behind the wall and those in our neighbor's camper started wailing—not the sounds you expect while camping.
What's my impression of Coachella Valley? The scenery, weather, nature, and artsy vibes make it a wonderful place to stay. But it's also touristy, overdeveloped, with every shop you would need, and filled with well-off retirees. We loved the visit, but it was not camping.